Mills County, Texas
Mills County sits where the Texas Hill Country gives way to the rolling Central Plains — creek-cut limestone country, native pasture, and old-growth oak. It has been a hunting ground, a battleground, a railroad boomtown, and a ranching stronghold. This is its history.
Explorers and Early Travelers
In earlier times the region was a hunting ground for Apaches and Comanches, who fought over it until the mid-nineteenth century. Although the area lay off the main routes of Spanish exploration, the land was not entirely unknown to Europeans.
Pedro Vial — a French-born explorer working for the Spanish Crown — passed through the Mills County area in both 1786 and 1789 while blazing a route between San Antonio and Santa Fe. He moved through a landscape entirely shaped by Indigenous peoples: Comanche territory, rich in game, cut by creeks and limestone ridgelines that have not changed much since.
The first documented Anglo-American traveler was Captain Henry S. Brown, who led a party across the Colorado River through the area in 1828 — not to settle, but to recover livestock stolen by Indians. He saw the land, but he did not stay.
The First Settlers
The first permanent settler, Dick Jenkins, established himself in the area in 1852. He was soon followed by others: D. S. and Sam Hanna, W. Lee Brooks, B. F. Gholson, John Williams, R. D. Forsythe, and Mr. and Mrs. Mose Jackson. These were people willing to live at the edge of everything — the frontier was not a metaphor here; it was their front yard.
Among the earliest settlers were German immigrants who had fled the political upheavals of Europe and found themselves in a land of extremes. One of them described their new home with sharp-tongued practicality:
Like the Indians before them, the first settlers subsisted primarily on hunting. The land fed you if you knew how to read it — and the Comanche, who were still ranging across this country, knew it far better than any newcomer did.
A Community Takes Shape
A Methodist circuit rider held the first religious service in the county in 1857, gathering neighbors in the cabin of Charles Mullin. It was a small act — a preacher, a borrowed cabin, a handful of families — but it marked something: the settlers were no longer just surviving. They were building something.
The community that grew was rough-hewn and self-reliant, shaped by the rhythms of ranching and the constant awareness of isolation. There were no hospitals, no courthouses, no formal law. Disputes were settled between neighbors, and justice — such as it was — was personal.
Outlaws, Vigilantes, and Rangers
During the Civil War and for decades afterward, white outlaws caused settlers more trouble than Indians did. Cattle rustlers, horse thieves, murderers, army deserters, and fugitives moved through the region freely. The formal institutions of law enforcement were distant or absent entirely.
Vigilante committees formed to deal with criminals — but then these groups degenerated into warring mobs, committing the very crimes they had been organized to stop. A reign of terror followed conflicts between vigilante groups, which broke out at Williams Ranch in 1869. Vigilantes drove out some bad characters but killed other innocent men. Lynchings and assassinations became commonplace across the county.
The turbulence lasted nearly thirty years. It was not until 1897 that the Texas Rangers finally rode in and broke up a vigilante group that had long gathered at Buzzard Roost. The era of lawlessness that had defined much of the county's first decades was over.
Organization and Growth
The first post office in what is now Mills County was established at Williams Ranch in 1877. The town became the center for the area — between 1881 and 1884, 250 people lived there, making it the county's first real population center.
Everything changed in 1885, when the Gulf, Colorado and Santa Fe Railway built tracks into the region. The railroad meant commerce, migration, and modernity. Settlement accelerated. Within two years, the population had grown large enough to demand formal organization.
In 1887, the Texas state legislature carved Mills County from lands formerly assigned to Brown, Comanche, Hamilton, and Lampasas counties. Goldthwaite was designated the county seat. By 1900, the county had 680 farms and ranches covering 142,299 acres, with nearly 25,000 cattle and 23,000 sheep reported across the land.
The county was named for John T. Mills, a justice of the Texas Supreme Court — a man of the law giving his name to a place that had spent its first decades without much of it.
The Black Family
In 1904, Irk and Minnie Black migrated to the area and purchased hundreds of acres of land along what would become Highway 84, founding what their descendants would carry forward as Black & White Ranch. They were part of a larger wave of families putting down roots in a county that was finally stable, organized, and open to a different kind of future.
What began as a working ranch in the early twentieth century has remained in the family across generations — each one leaving the land better than they found it. The name Black & White Ranch honors Joe White and Neta Fay Black, the grandparents who poured themselves into these acres and made the name mean something. Their grandchildren, Dakota and Cheyenne, are the current stewards of more than a century of legacy on this land.